Sunday, August 17, 2014

Nicole VS Niko Photoseries

It's been a moment since I've posted, I know. I've been settling into my new digs here, setting up the sewing room, and actually been taking an online class on how to complete my PDF sewing patterns.

If you remember, I was working on a PDF for the Petra Dress in January. And while I got super-super far on that, there were some pieces to the puzzle I was missing - like how to tile the pattern for printing. I graded the pattern but wasn't happy with my nesting and some of the pieces in general, but this class is helping me develop a very clean version of those sewing patterns and filling in the blanks. 

I'm excited to see where this takes me!

On another note, I am spending some free time being creative in ways I haven't been in some time. That way right at the moment is taking creative photos. 

I got out of Chicago at the perfect time for myself -- I'd been looking for an excuse for quite some time to leave and big factors that keep anyone in one spot all fell through all at once. It's as if the universe was telling me, "Get outta here. You don't belong here anymore!" And it was true. Nothing against Chicago, but it was just time for me to go.

Since I am back in the same place I went to middle school and high school (and haven't lived here in 10 years) it's really interesting to feel as if there is a juxtaposition with your former self. Everywhere I go, I have this feeling like former me (I went by "Niko" in high school) is following me around. There are constant reminders of the person I left here when I was 18 and I have been exploring "her" through spending some time with her - not only in my notebooks from those years, but also through a mini photo series.

Back in high school, I owned a van - it was an '89 Dodge Ram Cargo Van which I owned until about 2006. Now, I own a '97 Dodge Ram Van (seen above) - completely unintentional that it was the same style! I'm in the process of looking for some really great retro-looking flower power decals. It wouldn't be very me if I didn't make my vehicle look a little jazzed up and....happy.

 Current me is on the left here, former me aka "Niko" is on the right. Yes, that shirt, shoes, and boombox bag are all from high school! Some of the very few things I have left. Former me was very sassy, bold, ridiculous, and completely fearless. It's how I ended up in Chicago.

I've compiled some reference photos which stuck out in my mind about how I looked and acted back in high school, over 10 years ago.

The photo above with "Niko" on the back of the new van essentially recreates the photo from high school below:

Pictured: My sister, best friend at the time, Robby on the roof, and me in 2004.

The pants in this photo (circa 2003) were the inspiration for me using the striped jacket as well as the hairstyle, even though this photo is impossibly blurry.

 I also seriously wore a pink feather boa around a lot when I was 14, so that's why that makes an appearance. I was a weird one!

This one might be my favorite out of all the shots so far. Yes, that "Niko" belt is also something I had made and wore around in high school! I thought it was perfect to wear for this photo series.


This one is a bit ridiculous, but you get the idea.

I have a few more locations set up in mind for this photo series. I've been taking photos in places that were and are important to me both then and now: with my van, the woods, etc. I have a few more ideas in mind.

One thing I have learned so far about playing my former self in these: It's interesting how you look back sometimes and think your former self was "so cool". At least, that's in my case. However, while playing my "old self" and dressing like my old self, I get the sense of the lack of refinement I had. I was bold and brash, but often times wasn't as sensitive as I am now. I was fearless because I was naive and young. 

I also had no idea how to do my makeup! Seriously. I caked on eyeliner for these photos like I used to wear! I stand taller playing "Niko" but I don't have the same sense of self-awareness as my current self. "Niko" was much about drawing attention to herself where as current me is more about drawing attention to my design work and creative output. And that makes complete sense - Niko hardly ever actually made anything except for wrote obsessively. Every single day of high school is documented for me. It's insane.

But current me spends more time actually creating more than ever; sewing patterns, garments, art, working with resin, developing content for my blog, etc. 

Either way, this is a fun study for me. I'm having fun with the juxtaposition and seeing the results of the photos!




Stay tuned for more in the photo series!







Thursday, July 24, 2014

Tools of the Trade

Well, I'm currently in the process of packing up the sewing room to move to greener pastures. I have a new studio that will be about twice the size of the one I am currently in now (though I really like how cozy and compact it is) to make room for the rest of Manic Pop's products and inventory that is upcoming. That being said, I haven't been sewing at all due to packing and coordinating the move. Plus, my sewing machine desperately needs a tune-up as some odd bobbin tension problem is happening. (I cleaned it out, adjusted the upper tension, even adjusted the bobbin tension, re-threaded a bunch of times, etc. and still not much luck!) It's about time to take it in anyway since I have had it for about 9 years now and have never taken it in for a tune up. Whoops.

For the moment though, I want to talk about machines!


When it comes down to it, I'm an analogue girl. I am also a minimalist. This is why I have only had 2 machines for the past decade of sewing, aside from the fact that I had been long been living cramped apartment life in Chicago up until we got a house-deal.

I know some people are really into gear with their art, but I suppose I am a bit of a purist when it comes to constructing garments. In design school, the industrial machines only ran a straight stitch and that's really what I learned on. It took me a little adjustment period of actually get used to the slowness of my home machine, but hey.

So this is my trusty ol' machine!
This is a HuskyStar 224 by Husqvarna/Viking. It's very basic, analogue, but pretty tough. Like I mentioned, I've been sewing on it consistently for about 9 years and have (not recommended-ly) never had to get a tune up with it. (Hey! I was a poor college student, still living in the 3rd largest city in the US!)

When I took my first sewing class in 2004 at Muskegon's Lakeshore Sewing during my senior year of high school this is the machine I brought to class. (I'd been sewing here-and-there before that, but had never been trained.) I remember the ladies there teaching the class making a big deal about this thing, and in 2004 I suppose it was a pretty nice machine. I have no idea since it was given to my mom initially as a gift, but then she decided she didn't need it so she sent it off to me in 2005 when I was in design school.


 As you can see, it has only 24 stitches. I rarely use anything else aside from the straight stitch (14) and the buttonholer function (1). I just learned the other day while flipping through my manual that one of those stitches is a blind-stitch hem stitch (7? Maybe 9?) Either way, I haven't tried that one out yet. I tend to do a blind-stitch by hand if necessary.

A handy feature on this machine is the reverse function which makes it easy to do a backstitch when starting and ending seams. What makes this machine so tough and long-lasting is that (as far as I know) it has almost all metal parts on the inside. Cheaper machines tend to have plastic insides which deteriorate much faster.

While this machine definitely isn't top-of-the-line (and very well may never have been) it's more along the lines of what you would call "pro-sumer" - a professional-but-still-consumer machine. I've found on the internet that it originally retailed for about $600. But like I said - I wouldn't know since it was a re-gifted gift. Haha.

Part of me would like to play with a new Husqvarna/Viking machine with a digital software screen on it just for fun, but knowing how much more I could do on this machine (and don't) it would be a waste of money for me unless it was a gift. Plus, the digital panels scare me! What if that thing goes down?! You would need an actual programmer to fix it now versus a technician. I can be fairly old-school when it comes to these things. 

A second essential machine in every designer's arsenal would be a serger.
I bought a Brother 1034D as a graduation gift to myself in 2007 when I finished my BFA in Fashion Design. It had great reviews on Amazon and was only $200. I figured, "Hey, when is the next time you'll have $200 to spend?" So I got it. This thing hasn't let me down!

Sergers can sometimes be a little scary at first. I was trained on an industrial serger which is by far the scariest since it's nearly impossible to thread if you don't know what you're doing as well as ridiculously fast, but this one is super-simple. The only thing about this one is that it runs a little loudly, but I'm fine with that.


You wouldn't believe that I JUST dusted this thing out, but it's already dusty again!

For those of you that are unfamiliar, a serger will cut and enclose a seam with up to 4 threads on the inside of a garment. Take a look at the inside seam of a t-shirt you have. See the loopy thread? That was done by a serger.

I personally use mine for finishing off the insides of garments on the pattern pieces before sewing with wovens. With a stretch-knit, I will only add a 1/4" seam allowance and sew the knit directly on the machine. This was sort of scary at first, but I did it successfully with an entire dress very recently!  I think I've read that you can do a real coverstitch on this model, but I haven't toyed with disabling the knife on it for that yet as I sew primarily wovens. I have usually faked a coverstitch on my sewing machine after serging!

The nice part about this machine is that using cone thread (classic serger thread) isn't a requirement - you can use regular spools of thread! I tend not to though because that little notch on the spools usually gets the thread caught and pops off of the thread base which makes for really annoying serging. Plus, I have a ton of cone thread to go through that was given to me! This machine will use either 3 or 4 spools at once and I prefer 4. Typically you would use all the same color, but I like to break rules a lot.


 This machine also uses standard sewing machine needles so if you break one, you don't have to worry about finding some odd needle type. I've only broken I think one needle on this in all 7 years I've owned it and I use it for almost every garment. 

This one also has the removable arm for it  (just like your sewing machine) which is fairly standard but it's still a nice feature to have. It makes armholes and pant legs so much easier.

I'm sure this machine does WAY more than I actually use it for (like ruffling, decorative stitching, sewing on piping, etc.) but like I said, I tend to be simplistic in my sewing practices.

Fun Fact: a former Project Runway contestant also has this serger. I spotted it in the background of her studio once in an interview with her!  I think that speaks to the durability and quality of this thing even though it's so affordable.


So that's a roundup on my machines! Very basic, but completely essential.

I'll be looking around for a backup sewing machine soon just to have around (I'm planning on a metal vintage one of some sort) since this one needs to go in the shop. With me creating far more garments than ever before, I'll need some sort of backup around!

Feel free to tell me a bit about your current machine in the comments as well as suggest which vintage machines are great to look out for!

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Scallop Flutter Dress and.... BAGS!

I'm back! I can hardly keep up with all the cool things going on at the moment!

But first, I want to introduce you to a lovely new custom dress available in the shop NOW! 

 Oh yes, and I chopped off my hair since the last time I appeared on the blog. I'm typically a short-hair girl so I have no idea how it got so long. 

Let's take a closer look at this dress! 


Another scalloped beauty! This print was amazing and I had to have it for Manic Pop. Print availability is limited! So order quickly if you love this print. (Yes, I can make it in your size!) 


 I love the way the yoke came out. I integrated sleeves into the yoke by doing a drop-shoulder so they look like tiny cap sleeves but have the ease and movement of a sleeveless dress. 



If you've been following the Instagram at all lately, you'll see how I made a super-cute owl bag (the first ever Manic Pop bag!) and lots of you out there loved it. 

This bag is essentially a tablet bag - it's 9" by 11" with a 2" depth and will fit an Ipad and smaller into it. Or, it's a great day bag for when you need your wallet/keys/phone and a sketchbook, pencils, or a standard size notebook. 

Here is Jacob loving his new bag!

I'm kind of in love with the shape of this bag, so I went ahead and made an arrow one with leftover fabric. (Had more than I thought I would!) 

It was really fun (and easy!) to play with some piping as well as play more with the applique function on my machine which I've oddly never done before. There was a slight learning curve as my thread tension was wonky at first, but we worked it out. 

Stop on by the Etsy store! Lots more retro-handmade goodies in the works coming up! 

Which style would you like to see of past Manic Pop dresses in the shop? Fun print shirt-dresses? Colorwheel skirts? How about the Tanith Arrow Dress in other colors?

Until next time!


Sunday, July 13, 2014

Creatively Busy at Manic Pop

Lots going in the Manic Pop-world!

It's only been about 2 weeks now but so far I've made the Scallop Neckline dress (photos soon and will be available for custom ordering), made a very special garment for one of my favorite bloggers which will be seen soon, as well as working on a custom order of a different kind.

Sneak peeks of everything going on for now are available on the ManicPop Instagram feed (@manicpop) but right now we are busy, busy, busy!



The video filmed about Manic Pop 2 weeks ago should be up soon - but for now, check out some more of the fantastic work by Carlos Martinez and the other people he has filmed already for this project.


Be back soon with more fun things!

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Manic Pop is Going Mobile! Boutique, That Is.

Here's the deal: I know I mentioned a hiatus from Manic Pop for a bit, but Manic Pop will NOT let me quit for some reason.

Instead of fighting it, I am going with it.

Super-excited to announce that I am going full time with Manic Pop here on out but with a much-expanded product line of many crafty retro things such as my original handmade garments, totes, accessories. Stay tuned for all the product I have lined up!

Currently, here is what is happening: 

-In the middle of securing another van for the Manic Pop mobile boutique - follow the Twitter page @manicpopbus to see where we are! Currently building up inventory for the next few months but will be gearing up for a "Midwest Tour" in 2015.

 (Ok, I only wish this could be the bus, but I'll create something as cool as I can.... plus dependable.)


-Videographer is doing a profile on me and my design work with Manic Pop in the studio!

-Also was just given the domain name ManicPop.com ever so kindly by Michael Alan Perry, former owner of the late great Manic Pop Records based out of Minnesota. You can now contact me/send inquiries/custom requests to nicole@manicpop.com as well as access the blog by typing in www.manicpop.com!


This also means the PDF patterns are in the works again (get ready for the Petra dress!) No expected timeline on those, but I'll be working on them for sure! These are definitely something I would like to offer.

For inspiration, let's take a look at photos I dug up on the internet of fun fashion trucks, campers, and mobile boutiques alike!








 Totally in love with Lodekka, out of Portland, OR.



Thursday, June 5, 2014

BKI Knockoff Tunic Top

One more like I promised....


Can you guess which one is the impostor?!


 The one in the middle! 

So the story goes is that I have these sheer tunic tops from Brooklyn Industries that I love. I love them so much that every time we would get one in the store, my coworkers knew I was going to buy one. (I have a few other sheer tunic tops from them!) Wandering around in the fabric store about a month or so ago, I found this floral sheer print fabric and knew it would be perfect for another tunic top. It was only $6 a yard, so I figured I would try sewing with sheer fabric.

If only I had a pattern! I looked around on Burda for something that could be a tunic top approximation and even in the store for a pattern from another brand but.... no dice. It seemed like there was a general lack of tunic tops as a whole everywhere I looked. 

So, as always, I got to work making my own sewing pattern. 

I paid VERY close attention to detail on this one as I wanted to see how close of a knock off I could make it. 

There are 6 pintucks on each side of the front bodice - something I thought would be more difficult than it actually was. Especially in sheer fabric! I've done pintucks before long, long ago in college but I never have sewn with a sheer fabric. This was surprisingly easy.
The pintucks on the shoulder eliminate the need for darts on the bust. I also made the overall patten very straight, just like the original. 

 I even added a rounded back yoke and made a classic princess seamline like the original as well as a shirt-tail hem. I kinda went all out on this. 


Because it's a sheer fabric, I went ahead and made enclosed seams on it which is basically like sewing the garment twice. You can see that I got lazy by the end with the armholes and hem and just serged the edges. The original one is sewn using a self-binding but I just wanted to make my life easy and not cut binding or fuss with folding it over. 

I do think I'll make this style again eventually. I even like that I eliminated the problem of the neckline popping open like the original BKI design has. I think they wanted the neckline to be unbuttoned at the top button to make a v-shape neckline but.... it mostly annoys me where it sits. Bonus: My design is not annoying! 


*****
I'm still basically on my self-imposed summer break (or longer?) from the blog. Updating has been a habit, but I am also not that great at updating all that often. So.... long story short: I might be around, I might not be. I'll always post if I make something but don't expect a miracle. 

I am making something very soon for a special blogger-friend but won't reveal who she is. I'll let her post all about the dress when it's done, but you may still get sneak peeks on the Instagram!

Monday, May 12, 2014

Burda's Princess Dress

And now, time for a new dress!


This one is Burda's Princess Dress - #124B. I actually didn't make any changes to the pattern and cut the smallest size. I had this floral quilting fabric hanging around and wanted to use it up! The green is leftover yardage from the Tanith Arrow Dress.

This dress whipped up pretty quickly! And I did a super-successful invisible zip. I typically don't use them because the fabric store I go to rarely sells them. If they do, I don't know where the hell they are!

 Lately, I have been doing a lot of riding around on my bike, due to working for a very bike-friendly company. I'm still adjusting to riding a bit (I still feel a little like my whole body is vibrating after I stop if I ride for a consistent length of time) but I have been occasionally riding part of the way to work, 6 out of 12 miles roundtrip. I may never ride 12 miles roundtrip each day, but that's not the point for me.


I also needed everyone to know that my ol' bike has spoke beads. I'll be looking for some more soon. I just wrapped my handlebars for the first time and had to have seafoam green. Now my bike looks like an Easter egg!

I found this bike about 4-5 years ago in a thrift store for $50 - my favorite thrift store in Uptown! It needs some slight work like new tires and the headset gets a little flippy/mis-aligned sometimes but I prefer beaters in life. My reasoning is that most people won't try to steal beaters (though yes, people will try to steal anything) but I'm also not afraid to use it and beat it up a little.


 This dress is actually really comfortable. It only has bust darts which makes the top a little more roomy (not that I need that) and I opted to make mine sleeveless. I love dresses with sleeves, but I didn't have enough fabric for it. Plus, I just made a shirtdress not too long ago with sleeves. 

So I made a classic all-in-one facing pattern for this dress.



 I also put these fun wooden buttons I just had hanging around for almost a year. They matched perfectly! I also placed them on my left shoulder since I am a lefty bag-wearer. They won't get in the way when a messenger bag strap is on your right shoulder.


Overall, it was nice to sew a dress that I didn't make the pattern for once. I get caught up sometimes in making everything myself instead of just enjoying the sewing process and that's what this was for me: enjoying the sewing process. I can make patterns relatively quickly now for almost anything which is totally awesome, but sometimes I need to take a break.

I beat myself up mercilessly when something I have tested in a muslin somehow still doesn't turn out 100%. But nothing in life is 100% and sometimes you create a bad design. It just happens! How many retail stores have you been in and tried something on and even though it looked great, it just was off? We're all human.

This on the other hand.... if it didn't turn out well, I could just blame Burda. Looks like I didn't have to on this!

I also am failing hardcore at Me Made May '14. I signed up with a pledge of 3 handmade garments a week, but we've been moving around a lot of dirty stuff at work and t-shirts/jeans work best in that situation. I'm also still figuring out exactly what is appropriate to wear to work, so I've been playing it safe for a bit!

Until next time....
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